The XC-Racing Kit (add-on) as well as the newest standard of the Liteville 301 does not consist of bushings as plural. That would be a Step backwards for all bearings bearing side loads or without room for good gaskets.
The LV 301 recipe is quite a bit better:
6 roller bearings (stainless, double-sealed in combination with one hermetically sealed (x-ring) special bushing inside the top tube.
This airtight bushing is being loaded in ideal fashion at exactly this place through the patented new 130mm Liteville linkage to get to a noticeably better suspension and damping. At all other places on the LV 301, the used roller bearings are superior.
My Liteville 301 creaks/groanes when pedaling.
Why?
We know two main causes:
• Too little (or worse), no grease between cassette body and cassette.
• The quick-release is not ideal. We recommend quick-releases from Shimano (XT/XTR) or Mavic.
In all Liteville 301 frames starting 2007 the shock is mounted "the other way around" compared to the early LV 301s.
Why ...?
... because with the "old" direction it can happen that the water bottle will activate the lockout lever in rough terrain. In addition, there is more room now to grab the bottle.
It is, of course, permissible to turn the shock around in the early frames.
Please be aware that not all available parts on the market can be used / are allowed to be used for the Liteville 301 frame! Detailed information you can find in the Liteville 301 building instructions. (Tip: also as PDF)
Do not forget: the correct crank arm length is dependent on your leg length.
Starting at the "standard" crank length 175mm you can use the following rule of thumb:
XS and S frames: 5 mm shorter cranks.
XL and XXL frames: 5 mm longer cranks.
Only Shimano e-Type front derailleurs will fit. Due to the 40mm seat tube diameter no clamp will fit.
Please use the correct parts for Hollowtech II cranks (LX/XT/XTR). Older models for Octalink do not fit (different chain line).
Do not use the plastic washer coming with the derailleur. The derailleur has to be bolted directly to the frame!
It is all good! The dent has been placed deliberately to make room for the derailleur...
The front derailleur is actuated from above, so you can use only top-pull E-type derailleurs.
The Liteville 301 frame has been constructed with Shimano Hollowtech II cranksets in mind.
Cranksets from other manufacturers can be used but not all will be compatible.
BSA standard, width is 73 mm. Do not use washers with Hollowtech II cranks.
No limits! You may even use 210mm rotors in the rear!
Seatpost diameter is 34,9 mm.
The diameter is 38,0 mm
Besides the especially for the Liteville 301 tuned DT-Swiss shock (with significantly reduced damping) we offer a special edition Fox RP23 (while they last). All other shocks do not offer the full performance of the rear suspension, they are "over-dampened".
Depending on usage we recommend high-quality forks from 100 - 160mm travel. Less than 90mm travel we do not recommend. The stack height is too low and they are not able to keep up with the frame's performance.
The head tube can accomodate 1.5" forks, the headset that is part of the frame kit is for 1 1/8" forks, though.
In case you want to use a 1.5" fork, you need to install a headset suited for it.
You can not use Cannondale HeadShock or Lefty forks!
You need those parts to de-install the main piovot bearings, as described in the manual.
Yes, 0.75l bottles (and for the XL - XXL frames 1l bottles) can be installed.
No, there are no mounts for those brakes - and they can not be added due to low wall-thickness.
- Deinstall cassette from freewheel body. Apply anti-seize compound or thick grease to freewheel body. Install as usual.
(In 95% it is the cassette making the noise.)
- Replace quick-release axle with new Mavic or Shimano XT, better/lighter Shimano XTR 07.
If it creaks in front while breaking:
- Test the fork: uninstall, clamp steerer tube in vise and rock back and forth at the lower end of the fork. If it makes little noises it is the steerer tube in the fork crown. It is pressed in...annoying but harmless.
- What you will hear quite often if front brake is applied lightly and the bike is being rocked back and forth: a little clacking noise. The brake pads move in the caliper! No problem at all, it is usually NOT the headset...
With the three smaller frame sizes (XS, S, M) the P6 is going down all the way into the butted end of the seat tube.
The butted end does have the 34.9mm inside diameter but, due to welding, it will not be 100% in line with the upper part of the tube. So it will stick if the 480mm seatpost is fully inserted.
- So just check out, after riding for the first time, how much seatpost length is not needed and cut the post accordingly. Make sure there is still enough seatpost inserted beyond the lasered mark on the seat tube (minimum seatpost insert) and leave an extra 2cm.
Clamp post in vise (use caution not to crack it!), and cut with metal saw. Use sanding paper to deburr the edge and apply a little superglue to seal cut.
Be aware: carbon dust is not healthy, do not breathe in! Remove dust with a wet cloth.
Can I use silicon spray in case of sticky seatpost?
Yes, no problem. Prior to use of spray, remove all dirt from post and inside of seat tube. Keep silicon away from brake rotors and brake shoes!
Sometimes you have to do the opposite from what you expect...
for example, lube the front if it creaks in the rear.
The creaking in most cases does not come from the BB. So leave the BB alone and instead:
• pull cassette off of cassette body
• apply copper paste on cassette body
• After re-installing, use full required torque.